Zhongnanhai

July 25, 2007

China makes Canada’s cellphone coverage look like the third world

I am hoping, very soon, to be free of this weight which is the GFW. Thanks to the help of Dan over at China Law Blog, I may have found a solution to my hosting woes, which should make this site much more accessible in China. If anybody else wants to put their blog on the right side of the GFW, Dan has some ideas and can recommend some good blog hosts. (I’d link to his email and blog, but alas, that vital function of blogging is unavailable to me at the moment. My sincere apologies.)

There were a couple of things I wanted to discuss this week, but with my inability to link to articles and other poignant facts, I have declined until the new site is up and running. That being said, I thought I’d post my latest missive in the Times Colonist in Canada. As I’m not an American, I can’t comment on what mobile phone rates are like in the United States. But I think the article will leave no doubt about how I feel regarding Canada’s shoddy plans. I received quite a few comments on this article on Facebook (everybody is on there, right?) so I clearly touched a nerve with Canadians.

Let me know what you think.

Chinese progress belies stereotypes; Ease of cellphone access makes Canada look like the Third World
Times Colonist (Victoria)
Sunday, July 22, 2007
Page: C2
Section: Comment
Byline: Cam MacMurchy
Column: Cam MacMurchy
Dateline: BEIJING, China
Source: Special to Times Colonist

BEIJING, China - A recent survey released here showed that most foreigners — before they visit China — hold deep stereotypes about what life is like here, based on Chinese movies that make it to North America.

Many of those surveyed said that when they think about China, they think about kung fu, the ability to fly through the air and above all poor, backward farmers in straw hats tilling the land.

The stereotype is badly outdated, as China’s cities are now dotted with Starbucks, wi-fi cafes and glistening skyscrapers. BMWs wind through high-end entertainment districts, and businessmen in Armani suits chat loudly into their micro-sized mobile phones.

In fact, nearly 500 million Chinese use cellphones, making it the largest mobile phone market in the world.

Many people here have never used a home phone, because mobile phone rates are cheap and much more convenient.

And with the largest mobile phone market in the world continuing to grow exponentially, Research in Motion couldn’t resist trying to crack the market with its ubiquitous Blackberry.

But there’s a big difference between using a Blackberry in China and in Canada — price.

And our prohibitive pricing schemes and cumbersome customer services are holding Canada back from other technologically advanced countries like — dare I say it — China.

Let’s say you arrive in Beijing for a six-month study or work term and you need a mobile phone. First, you’d walk into a mobile phone store, which are found on almost every block, and select the phone that’s right for you.

This could range from a low-end, three-year-old Motorola right up to the newest Blackberry, Palm or Windows Mobile smartphone. Nearly all of the phones are “unlocked,” meaning you can use them with whatever cellphone carrier you choose, and change whenever you like.

Then you’d pop into a 7-Eleven or another convenience store (or even a road-side vendor) and buy a SIM card (your phone number).

This will cost, on average, about $4.50 and include more than an hour of talk time. Pop the SIM card into your new phone and you instantly have a fully functional cellphone. No activation required, no paperwork, no credit check, no signature, nothing.

When you run out of airtime, you can buy $15 recharge cards at nearly every street-level newspaper vendor or convenience store across the country. Simple.

Of course, there are other options for heavy users, such as monthly plans. I once used a monthly plan in Shanghai that included plenty of talk-time and two gigabytes of data transfer for $75 a month. No credit check required. You prepay each month, and if you don’t, you’re cut off. Your monthly bill arrives by e-mail. Again, it’s surprisingly simple, efficient and even environmentally friendly. The rate plans are cheap; the payment process is easy. So why can’t this be done in Canada?

“There’s no doubt that wireless data pricing is higher in Canada,” Andrew McLaughlin, the director of global public policy for Google, said recently in the Financial Post. Google now offers a number of mobile services such as Google Maps, mobile Gmail, and mobile searching — excellent services that many Canadians opt not to use because of Canada’s high data surcharges. RIM is leading the way in asking the Canadian government to pressure the big three mobile-phone carriers, Telus, Bell, and Rogers, to lower their prices and give entry-level consumers access to the market.

Rogers currently offers customers a 200-megabyte monthly plan for $100. That steep fee doesn’t even include talking minutes, and assuming you want to use your phone to make phone calls, you must pay extra for that. The data plan alone amounts to 50 cents per megabyte. The plan in Shanghai I mentioned earlier amounted to less than four cents per megabyte. And, for good measure, China Mobile threw in 2,000 minutes of talk time.

Why the discrepancy? As the Financial Post story continued, it’s not only China and other Asian countries with cheaper cellphone rates; Europe also offers complete data and voice plans for a fraction of what’s being charged in Canada. “They’ve got these entry-level service plans that they’re putting out there that you’re not seeing here in Canada,” said Don Morrison, RIM’s chief operating officer.

Last Christmas I arrived in Vancouver from Hong Kong and needed a pay-as-you-go phone number for the few weeks I’d be home.

I had to sign up at a Rogers counter, provide all kinds of personal details, fill out forms, sign some additional paperwork and then wait while the staff “activated” my phone. As the activation system was down, I had to wait more than 25 minutes.

All of this cost me $50 — before I had even purchased any talk or data time. When I finally bought a card, it took several steps through an automated service before my phone was usable. This entire process in China would take two minutes at a 7-11, and cost a fraction of what it does in Canada.

Cellphone service is only one area where China has made things much more consumer-friendly. Far from being a country filled with straw-hat-wearing farmers, China has, perhaps, even zoomed past Canada in the technology field.

Sadly, it is we who are backward.

July 18, 2007

Dealing with China’s finest “customer service” people

Filed under: Chinese Life

We’ve all been here long enough to have experienced rude service, be it in a restaurant, bar, or even on the street. I’ve had friends blow their tops at times, and I can totally empathize. I’m known as one of the most patient people around, but even I can barely stand it.

(I am having problems, behind the GFW, linking to other sites. For more on poor customer service, check out this post on Sinocidal: http://sinocidal.com/2007/07/18/dr-ni-dul-dik/).

As a PR person in Beijing, it often falls upon me to touch base with some of the larger corporate organizations. We are currently updating our client list ahead of an event planned in August. We hope to invite several companies to take part, and thus, need to ensure we have the correct names, phone numbers, email addresses, etc of the representatives we are dealing with.

Now, in other countries (seemingly ANY country other than China) the process is simple. Call up a business. Ask who an invite should be sent to. Get a fax number. This is not difficult. But remember, that’s in other countries.

I recently called ABB China (http://abb.com.cn) because the former President had recently resigned. We needed to update our files with the new President’s name. We already have general email addresses and fax numbers… all we needed was the name. The conversation went as follows:

Cam: Hi, I’m calling on behalf of (organization). I’m wondering if you can give us the name of your President?

Operator: No. What is the name?

Cam: I’m not sure… that’s why I’m asking you.

Operator: If you do not have the name, I can’t transfer you.

Cam: I don’t need to be transferred, actually. I’m just wondering if you have the name of the new President.

Operator: If you do not have the name, I can’t transfer you.

Cam: I understand. Can I talk to your manager?

Operator: No. If you don’t have the name, I can’t transfer you.

Cam: I can’t talk to your manager?

Operator: No. If you don’t have the name, I can’t transfer you.

Cam: Can I please get your name?

Operator: No.

Cam: Please give me your name.

Operator: No. Goodbye. *click*

I hung up ready to throw the phone against the wall. The operator was unhelpful, rude, and worse, condescending. My colleague looked at me. “It didn’t go well,” I said. He had tried calling ABB China before, and I couldn’t figure out why he was having so much trouble getting a simple name. “That’s how China is,” he responded.

Yes, “that’s how China is.” It’s the response we all hear, everyday, when something goes wrong. The fact that we actually accept this as a reasonable excuse is absurd. Rude behaviour should not be condoned in any culture, in any place, or any language. Even if she did not want to give me any names, she could’ve been much, much more helpful in explaining why and perhaps transferring my call to someone else who could’ve helped. I could practically see her playing solitaire on her computer and being annoyed that someone had the gall to phone and disrupt her leisure time.

I have named ABB China because it’s time that these organizations understand their customer service will hurt their reputations. I know everyone’s had experiences like these, probably numerous times. Me too, and 99% of the time I let it roll off my back and think “this is how China is.” Well, that’s too easy.

That excuse shouldn’t be good enough.

July 12, 2007

Element Fresh heading north

Filed under: Chinese Life

There are definitely things I miss about Shanghai. The subway has air conditioning, for example. My daily walk through the historic French Concession, complete with its narrow, tree-lined streets and small xiaolongbao vendors was much more pleasant than my loud, polluted jaunt through Beijing’s CBD.

But one piece of Shanghai that I miss dearly is finally coming up north - Element Fresh.

Element Fresh is a western-style eatery targeting health-conscious people. It was a regular lunchtime stop for me, despite its sometimes exorbitant prices (the chicken teriyaki salad with the famous miso dressing was pushing 60 kuai, if I remember correctly) . They made excellent salads, sandwiches, and fruit smoothies which was a perfect healthy alternative to the fast food dotting much of the country.

Hopefully they open at least one location along Chaowai, near my office!

June 24, 2007

Turning a poor rural village into a model for environmental sustainability

China’s rural areas are falling behind; The economic boom in the cities isn’t being heard in the countryside
Times Colonist (Victoria)
Sunday, June 24, 2007
Page: D2
Section: Comment
Byline:
Cam MacMurchy
Column: Cam MacMurchy
Source: Special to Times Colonist

My cab driver pulled up to Beijing West Railway Station around 4 p.m. I put my luggage through security and began looking around for a waiting lounge prior to my 4:30 departure to a city I had never even heard of. My ticket said Beijing to Gucheng, which is a small town in Hubei province in central China. It’s also known as the middle of nowhere.

Gucheng is definitely remote, but my final destination would take me one step further. To get there, I would have to take a 40-minute van ride from Gucheng’s train station to the even more remote village of Wushan.

We arrived in Gucheng the following day. I hauled my luggage down a couple of stairs and waited as the train pulled away. I crossed the rickety tracks and stepped over broken concrete before I walked through a deformed gate and out onto the street. The Gucheng train station doesn’t even have an arrivals area. It was as though the train stopped by the street and passengers quickly piled into vans or walked away.

Wushan, unfortunately, is much too small for a hotel. The village has a little over 1,000 residents, most of whom survive on about $275 a year. Our sleeping quarters, shared with a small group of journalists from Beijing, would be in a government guesthouse.

Foreign media attention often focuses on the thriving nightlife and business opportunities in Shanghai, the glittering skyscrapers in Guangzhou or the political power being amassed in Beijing.

The transformation of China’s east-coast cities is vast, and undoubtedly residents are enjoying drastic improvements in their living standards.

But despite these feel-good stories, the countryside is being left behind — way behind.

We met with Communist party cadres in Wushan, who explained that though medical insurance for villagers is only $1.50 per year, even paying that fee could sometimes prove difficult for the poverty-ridden villagers. The insurance covers about 60 per cent of their medical expenses, meaning the rest of the money for treatment has to be paid by the patient.

It was explained to me that a simple operation could still consume a lifetime’s savings. The irony of villagers being forced to pay exorbitant medical fees in a supposedly communist country didn’t go unnoticed.

I walked through the beautiful streets of Wushan, flanked on all sides by lush greenery with a small stream going through the village centre. I stepped into a couple of rural homes, some which didn’t even have four walls.

As the sun was setting I stuck my head into what seemed like a vacant house; inside a man was sitting on his couch in the dark. He didn’t have any electricity and lived in a concrete room with a large door open to the elements. About 750 million people in China — roughly 70 per cent of its population — live in conditions like this, or close to them.

Fortunately, we weren’t in Wushan just to observe peasant life. We were actually there for a good news story, one which we might hear a lot more about in the future.

The Beijing Green Cross (a Chinese non-governmental organization not affiliated with the international one), led by Sun Jun, went into Wushan about three years ago to turn the formerly dirty village into an environmentally friendly tourist spot. At the time, litter was strewn in the streams and garbage was everywhere.

"We have to learn to take care of our environment," said Sun. "We can not be a developed country if we don’t take care of our surroundings." And somehow he has been able to convince the villagers to buy into it.

Wushan now has solar-powered street lights, new environmentally friendly irrigation systems and compost piles.

Villagers have been planting trees and divide their garbage into categories ready for recycling. A town square has been built, where we were treated to dance and musical performances by some of the children.

It has also taken one of its core industries — 100-per-cent organic green tea — and is using it to build the town’s tea culture.

There is now a tea temple, and the tea ceremonies held there are becoming famous in the area. The result of all this, combined with the region’s stunning landscape, has been more visitors and higher incomes for residents, not to mention a new-found pride in their village.

Our group stayed in a renovated government house that night. Although the village is now environmentally friendly, it remains very poor. We were fed the same food four meals in a row— beans, tomato and egg soup, fatty pork, roast pumpkin, chicken soup and a few other dishes.

The sleeping arrangements were comfortable, although I spent most of my night swatting at flies and mosquitoes.

One of the biggest challenges facing China — if not the biggest — is improving the incomes and living conditions for rural residents. President Hu Jintao has been clear that narrowing the widening income gap between rural and urban workers is his priority. If he fails to do so, it could lead to further unrest and threaten the party’s hold on power.

A quick trip to rural China shows that there is a long way to go. But through efforts like those of Sun Jun, there is reason for optimism.

Cam MacMurchy is a Victoria journalist working in China.

cam.macmurchy@gmail.com

Idnumber: 200706240027
Edition: Final
Story Type: Column
Length: 891 words

Meddling in Canada’s internal affairs, and “there’s something about Mao”

Filed under: China, Canada, Chinese Life

Two items to pass along this afternoon.

I was surprised and a little bemused to see a notice going out in this week’s That’s Beijing weekly newsletter.  Under the June 22 events column, I found this:

» Quebec National Day
Come celebrate Quebec’s National Day with The Bookworm. RMB 120 includes buffet and three drinks (free for kids under 12). For tickets, contact Denise at 139 1011 9354.
6pm. The Bookworm (6586 9507)

Yes, I know this is a private event.  And as a Canadian, I don’t much care if there are Quebec Nationalist events in China, Canada, or anywhere else (we are much more secure about these things).  But I still found the event humerous, considering China’s track record with others who give the slightest hint of dealing with or referring to Taiwan as a nation.  

Obviously the Bookworm is a private business, and is not a reflection of the government.  But the next time some private group/company/organization decides to Honor the Dalai Lama or Chen Shui-bian or whatever or whomever else, we should remember this event in the heart of Beijing. (I am tempted to say this event "hurts the feelings of the Canadian people.")

And for a laugh, well, if you’re not Peruvian, check out this story.  It appears Cameron Diaz has landed in hot water for wearing one of those Mao bags emblazoned with the red star that we see in all the tourist markets in China.

While the bags are marketed as trendy fashion accessories in some world capitals, the phrase has particular resonance in Peru.

The Maoist Shining Path insurgency took Peru to the edge of chaos in the 1980s and early 1990s with a campaign of massacres, assassinations and bombings.

Nearly 70,000 people were killed during the insurgency.

A prominent Peruvian human rights activist said the star of There’s Something About Mary should have been a little more aware of local sensitivities when picking her accessories.

I’m wondering, now that superstar Cameron Diaz has been spotted sporting the Mao bag, if I should buy a bunch of these and begin peddling them on eBay. 

June 20, 2007

Poor, misunderstood Guangzhou

Filed under: Chinese Life

So there I was, in a taxi with one of my colleagues. We were discussing the merits of Beijing and Shanghai, something of which I touched on earlier but hope to explore more fully in the future.  He said he loves Beijing, and wants to live in Shanghai following the Olympics because he loves it there, too.  "Have you been to Guangzhou?" I asked.  "No. I have no desire to go there.  It’s unsafe," was the reply. It’s a common answer.

The thing is, everybody knows about Beijing and Shanghai, and the third member of the "big Chinese city" clique seems to always get left out: Guangzhou.

Ever since I arrived in Beijing I tend to ask if people have been there.  "No" is the usual response.  That’s usually followed by horror stories of wallets and bags being stolen, people being cut with knives, and general violence. There are then some digs at the Cantonese and Cantonese language, and their perceived poor ability in Putonghua. Odd that such descriptions come from people who have never been there.

Just before I made the move south, my old boss at China Radio International, Xu Huazhen, regaled me with horror stories about Guangzhou.  I was excited to be moving onto a new job, and I ran into her in the hallway.  

 "Have you ever been to Guangzhou?" I asked.

"Yes… it’s awful!  They eat such strange things down there, they are dirty, and it’s very unsafe.  You won’t like it at all."

I must admit I can’t remember her exact words, but they are very close to the ones I’ve written above, and exact in spirit. Nonetheless, these weren’t exactly the reassuring words I was looking for ahead of my big move.

I’m not sure how such a vile image of Guangzhou came about.  What I do know, is that these stereotypes of different regions in China are just as strong, no matter which region you’re talking about.  Engage a Bejinger about Shanghai, or vice versa, and you will hear a torrent of criticisms and generalizations about the other.  Guangzhou people are no different. Anyone outside of Guangdong, I was told, is referred to as a laobi, or butlau, in Cantonese.  And the people in Dongbei are apparently the worst and most uncivilized.

Anyway, I could yammer on all day about stereotypes, but the point of this post is to give a much needed defense to one of China’s great historic cities, a cultural mecca, China’s wealthiest city, and my former home: Guangzhou.

First, some admissions: Guangzhou is probably slightly more dangerous than other places.  I base this on one fact: even people in Guangzhou told me so.  During my time in Guangzhou, I witnessed one purse-snatching. In Beijing or Shanghai, I saw zero. Although some of my friends had their cell phones and digital cameras stolen (both in Beijing). On personal account, Guangzhou doesn’t seem any more or less dangerous. That being said, maybe avoid the San Yuan Li area if you can. Guangzhou residents tell me the crime is largely committed by migrants from nearby Hunan.

Now that that’s out of the way, here are the other things I experenced:

  • Superb southern charm - like elsewhere in China, the Cantonese people are proud of their heritage and are keen to help others and welcome them to their community.
  • A rich history - Mao himself taught at a school in Guangzhou.  It was China’s trading gateway for nearly 100 years during the Qing dynasty when all the other ports were closed.  It has a strong western influence.
  • Weather - tropical.  Need I say more? Pollution not nearly as bad as Beijing, nor as dry. Sunshine, palm trees, and lots of outdoor swimming pools were the order of the day. I had to turn off my air conditioner in December and January. It dipped down to around 10 degrees in those months.
  • Scenery - The banks of the mighty Pearl River have been revitalized. Each night visitors are treated to a laser-light show complete with music accompaniment (a ripoff from Hong Kong, I know). The water has also been cleaned up, and there’s hardly any debris or litter that remains.  The Mayor of Guangzhou swam across the river last summer to prove its cleanliness (a bit of a stretch, I admit).
  • City planning - Unlike Beijing, where historic buildings are being torn down to make way for the new and modern, Guangzhou is keeping its heritage.  The colonial buildings along the Pearl River and the beautiful European architecture on Shamian Island are tributes to the city’s past. New business areas, instead of being built on top of these iconic spots, are being moved to either Tianhe or Pearl River New City.
  • Cantonese language - I must admit, after living in Beijing previously, I was adverse to trying to learn a new language.  Those that speak both (and I admit, people that speak both are heavily Cantonese) claim Cantonese is much richer in substance and more pleasing to the ear. Since moving to Shanghai, and now Beijing, when I hear someone speaking Cantonese it brings back warm memories.
  • Practical people - The Cantonese aren’t concerned with politics, and while "saving face" is important all over China, it seems less-so in the south. They get things done, seem to be more efficient, and are more open (possibly due to its location near Hong Kong).
  • Geographical location - Okay, I know in Shanghai I could visit Hangzhou and Nanjing.  I know there are other places.  Beijing?  Perhaps Tianjin?  What else is up here? In Guangzhou, it was, at most, 2 hours to some of the country’s great cities or up-and-coming tourist destinations. Shenzhen, Dongguan, Zhuhai, Macao, and Hong Kong. I’ve omitted the smaller cities, but let’s just say I visited some beautiful beach resorts, hot springs, and tropical locales only an hour outside of Guangzhou.
  • Cantonese culture - which is a lot different from northern Chinese culture. During Chinese New Year, I must have received 60 red envelopes filled with money. Their eating customs are different, too: When we ate hot pot, they were disgusted that I put my chopsticks into the broth. They explained that the practise was dirty and could spread germs (obviously), and that nobody does that in Canton.  They use the spoon to dig out the bounty - ALL the time.

Do they eat weird things in Guangzhou?  Sure.  But I didn’t eat anything too strange when I was there (except for a frog’s ovaries, but that’s for another post). The rural residents in Guangdong insist on eating civit cats, peacocks, and other animals. But they are looked down upon by the sophisticated city-folk.

The bottom line is Guangzhou is not one giant horror story.  It’s one of China’s great cities (much older and more cultured than Shanghai, Shenzhen, or Hong Kong, for example). It is the heart of Cantonese culture, a culture which has spread its wings around the entire globe. It also lies in the heart of China’s wealthiest province, also known as the workshop of the world.

I wrote an article in the Times Colonist a while back that talked about how south China is the most exciting region in the country.  Even after having lived in Shanghai and returned to Beijing, which is preparing for the Olympics, I can’t be more sure of what I wrote. 

June 17, 2007

Sunday morning meditations and musings

Filed under: China, Chinese Life

Just a quick update this morning, as I rush around trying to pick up luggage from Shanghai.

  • I went to the small village of Wushan, Hubei Province last week.  The village has turned itself into an eco-village led by the Beijing Green Cross. The transformation in the village has been astounding (I saw the "before" and "after" photos) and I will write at length about it shortly.  New irrigation systems have been put into place, the villagers now sort their garbage and recycle, and all the street lights are solar-powered. The village has been so successful that the program is being expanded into four new villages.
  • I did another radio interview this morning on CKNW AM 980 in Vancouver, and broadcast around British Columbia on the Corus Radio Network.  It was a wide-ranging interview with more focus on June 4 (which, as I said earlier, seems to be a pre-occupation among journalists in western countries). It was nearly 30 minutes in length and even included some critical callers.  You can find the interview here, shortly after the newscast at the top of the hour.
  • Courtesy of the China Law Blog comes this article in the Seattle Times about the delicious Chinese food in Vancouver.  As my hometown is Vancouver, I couldn’t be more proud of the variety of cuisine there, Chinese and otherwise.
  • And finally, imagine Rosie O’Donnell as host of the Price is Right.

June 13, 2007

Off to visit nongmins in nongcun

Filed under: Chinese Life

I’ve lived in Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou.  I’ve spent copious amounts of time in Shenzhen, Hong Kong, and Macao.  I’ve hit all the main tourist places in China… Hangzhou, Xi’an, Guilin, Dongguan, Zhuhai, etc.  But one place I’ve never been is the countryside.

Guilin is probably the closest I got.  I caught the bus from Guilin to Yangshuo, a tourist mecca in its own right. But the bus wound through sparse roads and crumbling homes en route to the trendy West Street.  Sure, I saw chickens running across the street, and things like that.  It was rural, but not as rural as where I’m off to this afternoon.

I am heading out to a small village called Wushan in Hubei province.  It’s apparently got electricity, which is good.  Not so sure on the running water part.  And I’ve seen photos of the bathrooms in Wushan — let’s just say it must be cold in the winter, and hopefully it doesn’t rain much.  There are no hotels in the village, so I will be staying at a government guest house.

I’m looking forward to it, yet also thankful it’s only for two nights.  I’ll post a full report when I return. 

June 10, 2007

The expensive Beijing apartment hunt

Filed under: Chinese Life

I’ve definitely had bad luck when looking for apartments in Beijing. I moved to the city in 2004 when a number of new buildings opened catering to foreigners, such as Lan Bao and Sunshine 100, both near the Dawanglu Subway station in the Central Business District. At the time, my good friend and CCTV 9 news anchor James Aitken took a place in Lan Bao for 4000 RMB per month — it was a tiny, albeit new, bachelor suite. I paid 4500 a month for a bachelor in Sunshine 100, although the bed was in a room slightly separate from the living room.

We both watched as rents plummeted in the following year. I renegotiated my contract after a year, and got the rent lowered to 4000. Shortly thereafter, friends were finding beautiful new 2 bedroom places for 4000 or even less. But how times have changed.

Coming from Shanghai, I figured everything here must be cheaper. I had a 23rd floor (the top) 2 bedroom suite near People’s Square. It was 144 square meters. The view from my patio and bedroom window was to die for - an unobstructed panorama of Shanghai’s skyline. Not to mention it was a 5 minute walk to the Xinzha Road subway station. For this, I paid 6000 a month. Surely I can get something in Beijing for cheaper?

Not so. I mean, sure, if I wanted to live outside of the third ring road. My office is on Chaoyangmenwai, and after catching Beijing’s rickety and smelly subway from Dawanglu to Babaoshan (CRI) and the Military Museum (CCTV) I realized I want no part of it for my second tour in Beijing. I want to live within walking, biking, or a very short subway ride to work. But that also means higher rents.

Apartments quite far south of Jianguomen are going for 4500 - simple one bedrooms, and the one I saw didn’t even have a TV. Pretty much everything half-decent inside the third ring starts at 5000. What happened? Sure, people tell me, I’m being quoted the laowai price, even though my girlfriend has been doing everything, and she’s Chinese. I’ve also bargained with a few — I found a decent two bedroom loft for 5000 at Dongsishitiao. The furniture was old and sparse, the bathrooms and kitchen were falling apart. And it was a 6-floor upstairs hike to get to the front door. The building, although I’m told it’s new, looks like it serves as a dorm for migrant workers from Hebei. The best part was it had an upstairs loft and a big patio, although the architects, in their infinite wisdom, surrounded the thing with a 3-meter high concrete wall. We couldn’t see anything, other than the odd star in the sky, which is a once-a-year occurance in Beijing. Anyway, they lowered the price down to 4500 for me, but I still had to think about it.  Is this the best I’m gonna get?

Part of the issue is I’ve decided to study Chinese full-time, and work part-time, so I planned a reduction in my living standards already. But I didn’t plan this drastic of one.

Finally this morning, I found my new home. I’m paying way more than I wanted, but such is life in the new Beijing. I’ll be living in Xingfu Er Cun, a mere 5 minute walk north of Gongti’s north gate. It’s an awesome location. A 5th floor, two bedroom suite. No elevator, which is no big deal. It has white carpets in the living room and bedroom, which is uncommon in China to say the least. The bottom line is it feels like a home, and it’s well decorated. For this, I will pay 5200 RMB per month - about 1200 more then I originally budgeted.

Last night I sat on the rooftop at Kokomo in Sanlitun and paid 45 kuai for drinks, something that was not so common in Beijing even two years ago. I’m not a cheap-skate by any measure (just look at my bank account) but I’ve realized the frontier, bohemian, cheap party that Beijing used to be is quickly evaporating.  In a way, it’s sad, but also inevitable. 

I’m not sure how Chinese teachers make it here anymore. Beijing has a long way to go before it’s as expensive as Tokyo or Hong Kong (my favorite city), but it’s certainly on its way. 

I never thought I would miss Shanghai because it’s cheaper. 

May 30, 2007

Thoughts on the abusive student video

Filed under: China, Chinese Life

It started off as a simple YouTube video, and now it’s even on the front page of the Drudge Report, which has a link to it’s frequently-used news service Breitbart.

The video has struck a chord with many people in China, and if you haven’t watched the video yet you can do it here, or watch one with English subtitles here.

In brief, the video shows several students from Beijing’s Haidian District Art Vocational School abusing their 70-year old teacher. Excellent summaries of what happened can be found on EastSouthWestNorth and in the Jiefang Daily (hat-tip to Shanghaiist). I would get into the details here, but the case is already fairly well-known in China. I also blogged about it a couple of days ago. But I thought I would post an interesting email from my Chinese girlfriend, who works for the Beijing Youth Daily and is a born-and-bred Beijinger:

I don’t like the beijing boy title of the video. Not all Beijing boys are like that.

There are some updates about this story in beijing media.

There are lots of internet users are so pissed off after watching the video. Yesterday, a few people went to the school to show their anger. There is a culture thing. In china, we have a tradition that all the teachers should be respected, like fathers should be respected in a family. In  the old times, when there were no public schools, only rich people can afford to have a tutuor. The tutor is like the student’s father. Students have to take care of the teacher for his whole life. The student has to pour the urina pot and wash feet for his teachers.

So such a thing caused a lots of discussion about the value systems of young people in china.

The teacher is 70 years old, when he interviewed by reporters, he said, "they are all young people, I think it is sort of my fault that I
didn’t teach them well."

I really disappointed by what they did. I think the whole Chinese society went crazy, Chinese people’s value system has been distorted.
Is this because of the reforming of the society? Now in China, the only thing that matters is money. Being a successful business man is
a dream for more and more young people. The media does contribute lots to it. See all the TV shows. Teachers, researchers are not any
more a respected profession. Because they are not rich! If this thought can not be changed, there will be more and more beijing boys!
When money and social stutas become the priority of all the things in a society, I can not see any hope in the country.






















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